Menu Close

Members Project 37

Country House

Step 1

For this acrylics project I’ve done the painting on Canvas Panel and actually did the sky before I did the drawing because in acrylics obviously if you do the drawing first you have to paint the sky in very carefully so as not to cover up the drawing.

For this painting I still used my Daler Rowney watercolour brushes. For the sky I used a 1.5″ flat wash brush, with a mixture of cobalt blue and a lot of titanium white.  And just fill in the board coming two thirds of the way down adding more white to the mix as you come further down.  Then wash out the brush thoroughly and get a big dollop of titanium white and paint on the clouds followed by a tiny touch of paynes grey underneath the clouds. Then I used my finger to gently roll the white up into the blue forming the clouds. Then the same rolling the paynes grey into the white to give the shadow of the clouds. Then I did my drawing on top.
Step 2

For the distant hills I changed to my 3/4″ flat wash brush, I’ve got a mixture of cobalt mixture with the tiniest touch of alizarin crimson keeping this weak I simply stroke across creating the shape of the hills. Now because the base of the sky is still wet when I did this I am also picking up the light of the sky which is helping to make the distance colour even weaker. Underneath the hills I used a very weak mix of Naples yellow and then hookers green mixed with Naples yellow. Just simple horizontal strokes making sure that the colour stays weak.

Finally I changed to my No 8 round brush and again with a mix of hookers green and Naples yellow a few little blobs here and there to indicate far away trees and field line.

Step 3

Coming slightly further forward and still with my 3/4″ flat brush this green was a mixture of hookers green and raw sienna. Whilst still movable add a little bit of paynes grey to that bottle left hand side area. This just gives a little more depth which will make more sense when we get the house in.

Step 4
For the whole of the building I used my No 8 round brush and started off on the roof with a mixture of burnt sienna and raw umber.  Now is the stage to bear in mind that the light is coming from the left. These are very simple strokes just filling in the roof. Keeping it nice and strong to the right hand side areas and putting a little bit more water in for the left hand side areas.

Step 5
Now for the building itself I very simply blocked in with raw sienna and a touch of titanium white added to it for the light side. Also encompassing the wall in this, then raw sienna with a touch of raw umber for the darker sides, notice at this stage I have painted around the windows.

Then back up to the chimneys with raw umber and burnt sienna mixed but this time the emphasis on the burnt sienna.

For the darker side of the big chimney add a touch of paynes grey to the darker mix.

Step 6

Now its time for a little bit of detail, I started off still using my No 8 round brush on the roof. Give the impression of roof tiles with a few daubs of raw umber and paynes grey mixed, don’t start painting individual roof tiles. Then for the side parts that are coming down the building I changed to my No 3 rigger brush with the same mix but this time a few horizontal strokes to indicate boards.  Whilst in with this same mix I did a few random strokes in the wall and in the building to give the impression of stonework, remember at this stage you are not building it you are painting it so less i best.

Then back to my No 3 rigger brush and with some water paynes grey, a few daubs of this colour within the windows leaving the under colour of the canvas showing though between each daub to give the impression of windows paynes.

Step 7

For the ivy growing up the building I split my No 8 round brush being fairly brutal with it and stippled on a mix of hookers green and brunt sienna, then stipple on then just paynes grey for the darker areas. Now wash that No 8 round brush well because its time for the shadow, which is a mix of paynes grey and alizarin crimson. Its fairly evident where I have put the shadow. Within each windows a stroke across the top of each window and down the left hand side. Underneath the over hangs of all the roof areas that nice strong shadow cast by the chimney onto the roof. Then with a touch more water in the same mix onto the walls of the building here and there remember which is the dark side and also cast by the ivy onto the wall. 
Step 8

Time for the big tree behind the building. This helps make the building really stand out. I used my No 8 round brush and a mix of hookers green and burnt sienna and just stipple on. Then just paynes grey fairly strong where the tree meets the building, then soften it into the main green of the tree. Finally wash the brush out well and stipple some Naples yellow into the green here and there mainly at the top.
Step 9

The same process for the two normal trees at the front of the building as for the one behind the building but this time adding more yellow as this lot are catching more light. Then I changed to my 3/4″ flat brush to paint the conifer, this was a mix of hookers green, burnt sienna and cobalt blue.  Tap on with the sharp end of the brush to get the desired shape. Then tap on down the right hand side of the with paynes grey and the same with Naples yellow down the left hand side.

Step 10

With my 3/4″ flat brush I painted the hedge with the same mix of green as the conifer. Then add a little bit of paynes grey to the base of the hedge to make it sit down on the wall. Then a little bit of Naples yellow to the top of the hedge to add a little bit of shape and light.

For the flowery bits to the base of the wall I used two mixes of green. Firstly Naples yellow and hookers green mixes then hookers green and burnt sienna mixed just to give a bit of variance.  I did all of this with my No 8 round brush, and for the flowers its just a daubs of firstly alizarin crimson then cobalt blue mixed with titanium white

Step 11

The next bit was to stick that path in, this was a mix of raw umber with white and my 3/4″ brush. Very simply just fill it in and let it dry.

At this stage I also daubed in those little bushes on the right hand side middle distance. This was a mixture of hookers green and burnt sienna. Then a little bit of paynes grey to the right and a little bit of Naples yellow to the left. Don’t fiddle with these.

Step 12

Before I actually started o n the grasses, I put a few strokes of raw sienna weak onto the path and then for the grass, remember we are not painting blades of grass in this one, I used my 3/4″ flat brush and started off with a mix of hookers green and raw sienna in the distance then start to make it stronger with a mix of hookers green and burnt sienna. Then finally if you want to catch a bit of light, a few strokes of Naples yellow. Remember when you are putting these grasses on, just do a few strokes this is not a manicured lawn. Shape the land as you paint it. Now its important that you let all of this dry before final shadows.

Step 13

Again using my 3/4″ flat brush, a mix of cobalt blue and alizarin crimson start off with the shadow case by the bits of the building and draw this across onto the grass in the distance. Then the wall is casting shadow onto the path, the grass is edged with this mix as it touches the path to the right.

I also did a stroke in the foreground part of this big piece of grass.

Then finally with my No 3 rigger brush and paynes grey I did a tick in the sky for a buzzard.

Hope you enjoyed doing this one, its a bit different but a good strong painting.